Opening Night: Stravinsky's The Rake's Progress at Teatro Costanzi

By Alyssa | WhatsOn local events writer Alyssa picks out timely events, local favourites and useful places to eat, stay and explore.

There is a distinct, electric tension in the air when Teatro dell'Opera di Roma raises the curtain on a brand new season, and this year, the spotlight falls on a brilliantly cynical modern masterpiece. Opening the 2026-2027 calendar, The Rake's Progress by Igor Stravinsky Rome brings a dark, satirical, and visually striking tale of moral decay to the historic stage of the Teatro Costanzi. Helmed by acclaimed conductor Michele Mariotti and visionary director Rafael R. Villalobos, this highly anticipated production gathers an international powerhouse cast—including Lawrence Brownlee and Jennifer Larmore—for a sophisticated winter evening of neoclassical brilliance that sets the gold standard for the city's upcoming cultural year.

A Descent Into Neoclassical Satire

Stepping into the magnificent crimson and gold auditorium of the Teatro Costanzi on a crisp November evening feels like crossing a threshold into another era. Stravinsky’s score, renowned for its sharp, rhythmic drive and Mozartian elegance, echoes through the tiers of velvet boxes, wrapping the audience in a soundscape that is both piercingly modern and deeply traditional. This is not your typical sweeping romantic tragedy; it is a biting, fast-paced fable about Tom Rakewell’s plunge into ruin, fueled by temptation and poor choices. Expect minimalist, razor-sharp staging from Villalobos that throws the immense vocal acrobatics of the cast into sharp relief. You can feel the collective breath of the audience catch during the chilling graveyard scene, where the stakes are quite literally life and soul. It is an intellectual, musically rigorous evening that demands your full attention and rewards it with pure theatrical flair.

The Winter Ritual of Rome's Opera Aficionados

The opening of the Roman opera season is as much about the people in the foyer as the performers on stage. You will rub shoulders with impeccably dressed locals who have held season tickets for decades, mingling seamlessly with visiting classical music enthusiasts who have flown into the capital specifically for this premiere. There is a muted, excited hum of conversation in multiple languages floating above the clinking of champagne glasses at the interval bars. Rather than the sprawling, tourist-heavy crowds of the summer outdoor festivals, the winter audience at Teatro Costanzi feels intimate, fiercely knowledgeable, and deeply appreciative of the vocal craft on display. The shared applause at the final curtain call feels like a communal celebration, marking the true beginning of the winter arts season in the city.

Know Before You Go

• Book immediately: As the season opener, tickets are highly sought after. Secure your seats via the official Teatro dell'Opera di Roma website well in advance, particularly for the opening night and weekend performances.
• Dress code: Opening nights at Teatro Costanzi lean towards formal elegance. While a tuxedo is not strictly mandatory, dark suits and evening attire are very much the norm.
• Arrive early: Aim to arrive at least 45 minutes before curtain up. The cloakroom queue can build quickly, and navigating to your box or stall seat takes a little time.
• Language and surtitles: The opera is sung in English, but Italian and English surtitles are typically projected above the stage, making the intricate libretto easy to follow.
• Transport considerations: The venue is a short walk from Repubblica Metro station (Line A) and Roma Termini. If you are taking a taxi, ask to be dropped at Piazza Beniamino Gigli, but allow extra travel time for early evening Roman traffic.

Make a Weekend of It

The Teatro Costanzi is brilliantly positioned between the grand thoroughfares of Piazza della Repubblica and the atmospheric, winding streets of the Monti neighbourhood, making it incredibly easy to craft a perfect Roman evening. If you want to keep the mood relaxed before the intense drama of the performance, take a ten-minute stroll down into Monti for an early dinner. Secure a table at Pizzeria della Madonna dei Monti, an intimate eatery offering fantastic speciality pizzas and thick, comforting pasta dishes in a warm, unpretentious setting.

Should you prefer to stay closer to the Termini area, Bacco al Pretorio serves up wonderful traditional plates in a welcoming environment. For a more sophisticated pre-theatre drink and small bites, Vinsanto Vino & Cucina is a superb alternative. If your day includes sightseeing around the historic center, stopping for lunch at La Nuova Piazzetta Navona ensures you enjoy authentic Roman ambiance before preparing for the evening's premiere.

After the final curtain falls and you spill back out into the chilly night air, a sweet treat is the perfect way to dissect the performance. Wander across the centre towards the Spanish Steps area and stop by Venchi Cioccolato e Gelato, Roma Via della Croce, Piazza di Spagna. It is open late enough to grab a cone of rich, dark chocolate and pistachio gelato—or a decadent hot chocolate if the winter air demands it—before wandering back to your hotel.

Have a wonderful evening exploring the darker side of Stravinsky’s genius, and I’ll see you in the foyer! – Alyssa for What's On Rome.