Reliving the 1985 Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld Retrospective

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Step through the grand neoclassical doors of La Galleria Nazionale and you are immediately struck by a shift in the atmosphere. The scent of aged paper and preserved textiles mingles with the cool, echoing marble halls, creating a space where fashion demands to be viewed as high art. The rustle of archival silk and the stark, uncompromising brilliance of decades-old pencil lines draw you in, surrounded by a stylish hum of quiet reverence.

This is After – Steps Through Work. Fendi / Karl Lagerfeld 1985. It isn't just a new exhibition; it is a meticulously recreated love letter to a defining turning point in Roman cultural history. When Fendi and Lagerfeld originally staged this retrospective over forty years ago, it broke immense boundaries by placing haute couture directly inside a state-run Italian art museum for the very first time. Now, the original garments, concepts and sketches have returned to GNAM, offering a rare window into the alchemy between Rome's premier luxury house and one of the twentieth century's most formidable creative minds.

Sketches, Silks and Sartorial History

The curation feels deeply intimate, almost as if you have been granted exclusive access to Lagerfeld’s private atelier. Walk through the softly lit corridors and you will find walls adorned with his frantic, brilliant original sketches, where sharp pencil strokes give way to bold, confident splashes of colour. The garments themselves are displayed less like clothing and more like soft sculpture.

You can lean in closely to see the intricate, fragile paper patterns that translated a wild, avant-garde idea into wearable art, displayed alongside archival coats and dresses that still look fiercely contemporary today. It is a slow, quiet experience—one where fashion students linger for hours over the precise cut of a lapel, while casual visitors find themselves utterly mesmerised by the sheer level of craftsmanship woven into every seam.

The Couture Crowd at Villa Borghese

There is a distinct, electric energy pulsing through the crowd here. La Galleria Nazionale always attracts an interesting mix of people, but this specific retrospective has drawn out Rome's most impeccably dressed locals alongside international design students clutching thick notebooks. You will overhear whispered debates in French, Italian, and English dissecting Lagerfeld's early construction techniques, while older Romans warmly point out specific pieces they remember from the original 1985 unveiling. It feels communal yet intensely chic—a shared, unspoken appreciation for the city's deep-rooted mastery of design.

Know Before You Go

• Beat the queues: Secure your standard museum entry via the official GNAM website or TicketOne to bypass the walk-up ticketing line.
• Pace yourself: Set aside at least two hours to fully appreciate the Fendi archives, but leave ample time to explore the rest of the gallery's phenomenal modern art collection afterwards.
• Dress comfortably but chic: The gallery is beautifully air-conditioned (a genuine blessing during the lingering Roman summer heat), but you will be on your feet on hard marble floors for a long stretch.
• Getting there: The venue sits right on the edge of the leafy Villa Borghese gardens. The easiest and most scenic approach is taking the tram along Viale delle Belle Arti, as street parking in the affluent Parioli neighbourhood can be notoriously tricky.

Make a Weekend of It

After soaking up all that sartorial inspiration, a stroll through the shaded paths of the adjacent Villa Borghese is practically mandatory. Let the gravel crunch under your shoes as you wander south toward the Pincio Terrace for spectacular panoramic views over the city, before taking the sweeping staircase down into the high-end shopping district of Piazza di Spagna. By now, you will have earned a sweet treat. Stop into Venchi Cioccolato e Gelato, Roma Via della Croce, Piazza di Spagna to sample a few rounds of creamy, intense dark chocolate or pistachio gelato. If you prefer a lighter, gourmet snack, head over to Zia Rosetta for some of the city's best stuffed rosettes.

If you want to keep the authentic Roman immersion going into the evening, weave your way toward the Trevi area for dinner. Pinsitaly Trevi is a fantastic, rustic spot for an authentic, crispy Roman pinsa without the usual tourist-trap fuss. Alternatively, if your evening takes you deeper into the historic centre near the Pantheon, secure a table at Osteria da Fortunata - Pantheon. Getting to watch them hand-roll the fresh strozzapreti pasta by the window feels like the perfect culinary counterpart to the artisanal mastery you spent the morning admiring at the gallery. For those who wander towards Piazza Navona, La Nuova Piazzetta Navona provides a lovely setting for a leisurely meal.

I can't wait to see which of Lagerfeld's early sketches catches your eye the most—enjoy the exhibition!