130 Canvases at MACRO: Inside Miriam Cahn's Rome Retrospective

By Alyssa | WhatsOn local events writer Alyssa picks out timely events, local favourites and useful places to eat, stay and explore.

There is a profound, almost startling quiet that falls over the gallery the moment you step into the vast, industrial-chic halls of MACRO. You are immediately confronted by intense bursts of neon yellow, bruised purples and deep, charcoal blacks radiating from the walls. The air feels charged, heavy with the unspoken narratives of the figures gazing back at you from the canvases. This is not an exhibition you simply walk through; it is one that stops you dead in your tracks, holding you captive in its raw, unfiltered gaze.

This is Ciò che mi guarda (What Looks at Me), the very first major Italian museum retrospective dedicated to the internationally celebrated Swiss artist Miriam Cahn. It is a monumental gathering of over 130 works spanning her prolific career, and it is arguably one of the most significant contemporary art events happening in Rome right now. Cahn is renowned for her uncompromising exploration of the human condition, vulnerability and the body. To see such a comprehensive collection of her work brought together in a major Roman space is a rare privilege, offering a deep, emotional journey that lingers long after you have left the museum.

Raw Oils and Restless Canvases

Cahn's work demands a physical reaction. Wandering through the curation, you will notice the striking way the pieces are displayed. Many of her paintings are hung without frames, creating a sense of immediacy and borderless emotion. The texture of her oils feels alive, with rapid, visceral brushstrokes that capture fleeting moments of pain, joy and defiance. You will find yourself leaning in to trace the frenetic lines of her charcoal drawings, only to step back quickly as the sheer scale and intensity of her larger oil paintings command the room.

The flow of the exhibition is masterfully designed to guide you through different psychological landscapes. In one room, the brilliant, almost radioactive colours feel overwhelming and loud; in the next, shadowy, spectral figures emerge from dark backgrounds, demanding quiet contemplation. It is an experience of sharp contrasts, beautifully housed within MACRO's stark, modernist architecture, which provides the perfect neutral canvas for Cahn's vibrant and restless mind.

A Shared Intimacy

Stand in the centre of the main exhibition space and you will notice a distinct shift in the usual museum energy. The typical buzz of tourists snapping rapid photos is replaced by a slow, deliberate pacing. Art students sketch fiercely in notebooks, while curious locals and international visitors stand shoulder-to-shoulder in hushed reverence.

There is a communal sense of grappling with the profound happening here. People do not just look at these paintings; they converse with them in whispers. You will often spot strangers exchanging silent nods of mutual understanding as they move from one haunting portrait to the next. It is a shared intimacy, proving just how universally Cahn's themes resonate across generations and cultures.

Know Before You Go

• Secure your entry: While MACRO is spacious, major retrospectives can draw significant crowds, particularly on weekends. It is highly recommended to check the official MACRO website for any sudden capacity updates or to secure your entry in advance.
• Pace yourself: With over 130 works to take in, the emotional weight of the exhibition is substantial. Allow yourself at least two hours to wander at a slow pace without feeling rushed.
• Travel light: The museum requires large bags and backpacks to be left in the cloakroom. Bring a small crossbody bag for your essentials to keep your hands free.
• Accessibility: MACRO is fully accessible for wheelchair users, with smooth flooring and spacious lifts connecting the different exhibition levels.
• Timing is everything: To experience the quietest atmosphere, aim for a mid-morning visit during the week.

Make a Weekend of It

MACRO sits in the leafy, elegant Salario district, which means you are perfectly placed to seamlessly blend contemporary art with classic Roman indulgence. When you leave the museum, I highly suggest taking a slow, scenic stroll through the nearby Villa Borghese gardens. The pathways leading back toward the historical centre are beautiful in the afternoon light. As you descend toward the Spanish Steps, reward yourself with a stop at Venchi Cioccolato e Gelato on Via della Croce. Their rich, dark chocolate and pistachio flavours are the perfect pick-me-up after a heavy morning of art.

If the exhibition has left you hungry for a proper Roman meal, weave your way down towards the Trevi area. Here, tucked slightly away from the absolute centre of the chaos, you will find Pinsitaly Trevi. It is a fantastic, welcoming spot to try authentic, cloud-like Roman pinsa, surrounded by hanging cured meats and a genuinely warm local vibe.

Alternatively, if you want to extend the evening in a slightly more polished setting, jump on the metro or take a leisurely walk over to the Monti neighbourhood to dine at Benso. With its beautiful brick arches and old-school bistro accents, it is an idyllic setting to dissect the exhibition over excellent Italian plates and a bottle of wine. To cap off the night, head just a short distance away to Vattani Elegant Italian Restaurant & Cocktail Bar near the Viminale. The fairy lights, creative mixology and impeccable service provide a brilliant, atmospheric end to a culturally rich day.

I hope this exhibition moves you as deeply as it moved the crowds around me, and that you enjoy exploring this brilliant, ever-evolving corner of Rome.