Ten Years On: Inside the Final Weeks of Rome's Ettore Scola Retrospective

By Alyssa | WhatsOn local events writer Alyssa picks out timely events, local favourites and useful places to eat, stay and explore.

Stepping off the sun-drenched cobblestones near Piazza Navona and into the cool, sweeping staircases of Palazzo Braschi feels remarkably like walking onto a mid-century film set. Inside, the flicker of vintage projectors and the familiar, gravelly voices of Marcello Mastroianni and Sophia Loren echo through the 18th-century halls. We are in the final stretch of Ettore Scola. Non ci siamo mai lasciati, a beautifully curated and deeply emotional retrospective marking ten years since the passing of one of Italy's greatest cinematic storytellers.

For anyone who has ever romanticised the golden era of Italian filmmaking, this is an unmissable tribute. Scola captured the grit, humour and tragedy of 20th-century Rome better than almost anyone else, and this major exhibition brings the maestro's legacy back to the very city that served as his greatest muse.

Behind the Lens of a Golden Age

The exhibition space trades traditional stark gallery walls for an immersive, shadowed atmosphere that mimics the intimacy of a classic movie house. Instead of simply hanging promotional posters, the curators have pulled back the curtain on Scola's creative process. His unique ability to blend the personal struggles of everyday Romans with sweeping historical backdrops earned him international acclaim. Visitors can observe how he meticulously planned these narratives by browsing glass cases filled with his original, battered typewriters, scripts heavily annotated with hurried marginalia, and rare behind-the-scenes photographs showing legendary actors laughing off-camera between takes.

The unquestionable highlight is the series of dedicated screening rooms, where beautifully restored clips from masterpieces like Una giornata particolare and C'eravamo tanto amati play on loop. It is incredibly easy to lose track of time simply sitting in the dark, watching the poignant dialogue unfold and admiring the meticulous costume design up close.

Cinephiles and Nostalgic Romans

What makes this exhibition feel so alive is the crowd it draws. You will regularly brush shoulders with older Romans who remember queuing around the block for these premieres in the seventies, often whispering lines of dialogue to themselves as the clips play. Alongside them are young, intense film students clutching notebooks, studying Scola's framing and narrative pacing. The generational bridging is beautiful to witness. Grandparents point out forgotten street corners in the films to their grandchildren, sharing personal anecdotes of a Rome that has long since transformed. The atmosphere is one of collective reverence and shared cultural memory; it feels much warmer and more communal than your typical art museum visit.

When the Sun Sets: Notturno Imperiale at the Baths of Caracalla

If the cinematic magic of Ettore Scola leaves you craving more dramatic Roman scenery, the perfect evening follow-up awaits just a short distance away. Through October 2026, the city is hosting Notturno Imperiale at the Baths of Caracalla. This evocative nighttime exploration allows visitors to experience one of Rome's grandest ancient thermal complexes under the stars. The ruins are bathed in dramatic, carefully designed lighting that casts long, theatrical shadows across the towering brick arches, making you feel as though you have stepped into an epic historical film of your own.

What makes this late-summer and autumn opening truly special is the rare access it grants. Guests are invited to uniquely descend into the sprawling underground galleries—the hidden service tunnels where hundreds of enslaved workers once kept the massive thermal engines running. From there, the tour leads into the spectacular Mithraeum, the largest sanctuary dedicated to the god Mithras in the Roman Empire. Combining this ancient grandeur with modern culture, the site is also currently hosting a captivating mix of contemporary art installations and photography exhibitions, perfectly juxtaposing the old with the new. With accessible ticket prices and a highly anticipated special opening planned for European Heritage Days in late September, it stands out as one of the season's premier cultural experiences. Visitors can also look forward to upcoming concerts scheduled within the complex, adding an auditory layer to the monumental visual feast.

Know Before You Go

• Closing soon: The retrospective ends in mid-September. With local schools returning and the autumn crowds picking up, weekend slots are becoming heavily subscribed.
• Pacing your visit: Give yourself at least an hour and a half. The archival letters, sketches and video essays require time to properly digest.
• Beat the heat: Palazzo Braschi offers excellent air conditioning, making a midday ticket the perfect way to escape the peak afternoon sun.
• Booking ahead: While walk-ups are sometimes possible, securing your spot through the official Museo di Roma website is highly recommended to avoid queuing at the door.
• Plan a dual itinerary: Because the retrospective is centrally located, it pairs brilliantly with an evening event like the Caracalla night tours, allowing you to experience the best of Rome's modern cinema and ancient history in a single day.

Make a Weekend of It

Start your cinematic day out right in the heart of the Centro Storico. Before heading into the museum, grab an Aperol and a slice of mushroom pizza at La Nuova Piazzetta Navona, sitting under their covered terrace to watch the world go by in one of Rome's most famous squares. If you prefer the lively bustle of a traditional market atmosphere, take a short stroll over to Campo de' Fiori and secure an outdoor table at Romoletto for a proper, energetic Roman lunch.

After you have had your fill of film history and explored the museum's upper floors, walk a few streets over to Osteria di Ponte. Housed in a stunning 15th-century building, it provides a wonderfully elegant backdrop to debrief on your favourite Scola scenes over premium grilled meats and traditional pasta.

If you are planning to attend the Notturno Imperiale, you will want some exceptional dining options for the evening. Consider crossing the river into Trastevere, where you can dive into a legendary plate of cacio e pepe at Tonnarello, a beloved local staple. Alternatively, if you want something slightly more modern, book a table at Vattani Elegant Italian Restaurant & Cocktail Bar, which offers an upscale atmosphere to toast to a day of art and antiquity. And no evening in Rome is complete without dessert—wander towards the Spanish Steps for a decadent cone at Venchi Cioccolato e Gelato, Roma Via della Croce, Piazza di Spagna to cap off a truly unforgettable Roman holiday.

Catch this cinematic love letter to the Eternal City before the screen finally fades to black.