Ercolano. L'arte di vivere

By Alyssa | WhatsOn local events writer Alyssa picks out timely events, local favourites and useful places to eat, stay and explore.

Stepping off the sun-baked cobbles of the Lungotevere and into the cool, imposing shadows of Emperor Hadrian's ancient mausoleum, there is an immediate shift in the atmosphere. The grand, militaristic scale of Castel Sant'Angelo suddenly gives way to something deeply intimate: the fragile, frozen remnants of a seaside town destroyed in an instant. Visitors lean in close to the glass cases, speaking in hushed tones as they examine intricately carved wooden furniture, delicate glass vessels and the poignant, everyday trinkets of a people who had no idea their world was about to end. The highly anticipated Ercolano. L'arte di vivere exhibition has arrived in Rome, temporarily transforming a Roman fortress into a window overlooking the Bay of Naples.

Bringing the archaeological treasures of Herculaneum directly to the capital, this rare showcase explores the daily 'art of living' in antiquity. While Pompeii often steals the historical spotlight, Herculaneum's unique burial under a deep layer of volcanic mud in 79 AD preserved organic materials—wood, food, fabrics—that were largely lost elsewhere. For visitors who might not have the time to travel south to the actual ruins, this exhibition provides an unmissable, profound connection to the Romans not as emperors or gladiators, but as ordinary people decorating their homes, preparing their meals and going about their day.

Whispers from a Buried City

Rather than a dry, chronological walk-through, the curation here feels like wandering through the rooms of an ancient coastal villa. You will find yourself marvelling at the vibrancy of frescoes that still retain their vivid reds and deep, oceanic blues, depicting mythological scenes that once adorned the walls of wealthy merchants. In the quieter corners, the sensory details of the past take hold. You can almost smell the sea air and the wood smoke when looking at the carbonised remains of everyday Roman life—a loaf of bread, a woven basket, a finely wrought comb.

For families, the exhibition offers a brilliant visual contrast to the monumental ruins of the Colosseum or the Forum. The sheer relatability of the artifacts makes history tangible; children are often fascinated to see ancient dice, cooking pots and jewellery that look remarkably similar to things we use today. For history enthusiasts, the draw is the exceptional state of preservation and the chance to see artifacts freshly pulled from the vast archaeological deposits of the Herculaneum site.

A Shared Connection Across Millennia

There is a distinct communal energy moving through the vaulted halls of Castel Sant'Angelo. You will spot local history buffs nodding knowingly at the detailed explanatory plaques alongside tourists pointing out the sheer modernity of a two-thousand-year-old bronze lamp. Because the items on display are so personal, the exhibition strips away the usual barrier between us and the ancients. The typical crowd is reflective, captivated by the sudden, overwhelming realisation that the people who crafted and cherished these objects lived lives not so different from our own. It is a sobering, beautiful experience that leaves a lasting impression long after you step back out into the bright Roman afternoon.

Know Before You Go

• Timing your visit: Midday heat and peak tourist traffic around the Vatican can make the area overwhelming. Aim for an early morning visit when the doors open, or late afternoon to enjoy the golden hour views from the castle's upper terraces after seeing the exhibition.
• Ticketing: Entry to the exhibition is cleverly included with your standard monument admission. However, the queues winding along the Tiber can be formidable; booking your entry slot in advance via the Castel Sant'Angelo official website is highly recommended.
• Accessibility: The lower levels of the fortress have ramps and lifts, but navigating the ancient structure to reach certain exhibition rooms and the panoramic roof can involve uneven steps and narrow passageways. Check the venue listing if you have mobility concerns.
• What to bring: A water bottle is essential in late summer, and comfortable walking shoes are a must for navigating the cobblestones and ancient staircases of the monument.

Make a Weekend of It

After immersing yourself in the ancient art of living, you will undoubtedly be ready to partake in the modern one. Fortunately, you are perfectly positioned to enjoy some of Rome's best culinary offerings. Just across the majestic Ponte Sant'Angelo, nestled in the historic Centro Storico, you will find Osteria di Ponte. Set within a beautifully preserved 15th-century building, it is the ideal spot to digest your historical morning over traditional Roman dishes and perhaps some grilled meats.

If your afternoon plans have you heading towards the Vatican, take a short stroll to Osteria Sant'Uffizio on Via delle Fornaci. The warm, attentive service makes their generous three-course meals feel like dining in a local's home. Alternatively, if you prefer to wander deeper into the winding streets near Piazza Navona, La Nuova Piazzetta Navona is a fantastic choice for a relaxed pizza and Aperol, finishing with their superb pistachio tiramisu. For those who find themselves wandering closer to the Pantheon to admire the ancient dome, the handmade pasta at Osteria da Fortunata is legendary. Should your walk lead you towards the Trevi Fountain, you can enjoy an excellent modern Roman staple by stopping at Pinsitaly Trevi for a quick and delicious pinza.

And, of course, in every visit to Italy, there is one sacred obligation. Take a scenic walk over to the Spanish Steps area and join the queue at Venchi Cioccolato e Gelato. Whether you opt for a rich cremino or a refreshing pistachio, it is the perfect sweet note to end a day of exploration.

I hope you enjoy this rare window into the ancient world as much as I did. See you by the river.