Seventy Years of Art Inside Rome's Casino dei Principi

By Alyssa | WhatsOn local events writer Alyssa picks out timely events, local favourites and useful places to eat, stay and explore.

The crunch of gravel beneath your boots, the scent of damp pine needles hanging in the crisp air, and the grand, imposing facade of the Casino dei Principi rising through the trees. There is a distinct kind of magic to Villa Torlonia as the seasons turn, a quiet majesty that feels completely removed from the rush of the city centre. Stepping through the heavy doors of the museum, the chill of the park is replaced by the warmth of polished marble and the sudden, striking burst of contemporary colour against classical walls.

This autumn and winter, that contrast is at the heart of one of Rome's most anticipated cultural arrivals: Elisa Montessori: Nel corso del tempo. This monumental retrospective spans more than 70 years of work by the acclaimed Genovese artist, offering a vast, deeply personal journey through her evolving relationship with nature, myth, and the female form. What makes this exhibition a genuine standout is that it is entirely self-curated. You are not just looking at a timeline of her career; you are seeing her life's work exactly as she wishes it to be seen, making it an incredibly intimate and revealing experience.

Ink, Canvas and Neoclassical Grandeur

The sheer volume of the collection is breathtaking. As you wander from room to room, the art shifts from delicate, lyrical ink drawings to bold, expansive canvases that seem to vibrate with energy. The exhibition is an immersive sensory experience where the delicate rustle of turning sketchbook pages in the display cases meets the echoing footsteps of visitors on the grand floors. Montessori's fascination with botanical motifs and flowing lines feels particularly poetic here, as if the manicured gardens of the villa outside are subtly creeping in through the tall, draped windows.

For those drawn to the details, the smaller, tactile works—fragments of paper, intricate mosaics, and illustrated books—demand close attention, revealing the meticulous hand of an artist who finds meaning in the microscopic. Meanwhile, the larger installations dominate the rooms, creating striking silhouettes against the ornate, aristocratic architecture of the Casino.

A Crowd of Quiet Admirers

Because Villa Torlonia sits slightly off the heavily beaten tourist trail, the atmosphere inside the exhibition is wonderfully contemplative. The galleries draw a fascinating mix of people: local art students sitting cross-legged on the floor sketching in worn notebooks, older Romans returning to revisit a beloved artist's work, and curious visitors who initially came for the park and stumbled into a world-class retrospective. There is a shared, hushed appreciation in the rooms, a collective understanding that they are witnessing a lifetime of creative dedication laid bare.

Know Before You Go

• Allow time for the grounds: Villa Torlonia is vast and beautiful. Give yourself at least an hour before or after the exhibition to explore the park and admire the exterior of the whimsical Casina delle Civette.
• Layer up: The historic buildings in the park can be drafty during the colder months, so bring a light jacket or scarf that you can easily take off inside the galleries.
• Booking ahead: While weekdays are generally quiet, weekends can see a steady flow of locals. It is highly recommended to secure your entry in advance via the official Musei di Villa Torlonia website.
• Accessibility: The Casino dei Principi is accessible, but the gravel paths in the surrounding park can be uneven in places, especially after heavy rain.

Make a Weekend of It

After spending a few hours immersed in the tranquility of the Nomentano district, hopping on the Metro or taking a short cab ride back toward the historic centre is the perfect way to transition into the evening. If you want something quick, high-quality, and deeply traditional, stop by Grano Street Food | Pizza Romana on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II for exceptional Roman pizza and calzoni that you can enjoy without the fuss of a formal booking.

For a sit-down affair where you can debrief on the artwork while people-watching over a spritz, Camillo - a Piazza Navona dal 1890 offers a charming terrace right on the famous plaza. If you prefer a cozy enoteca vibe, Vinsanto Vino & Cucina provides an exquisite selection of regional wines to pair with your cultural reflections. Alternatively, if your route takes you closer to Termini and the Viminale area, book a table at Vattani Elegant Italian Restaurant & Cocktail Bar. Should you decide to cross the river into Trastevere instead, securing a spot for the legendary pasta at Tonnarello or the refined Roman classics at Rione 13 Ristorante is always a brilliant choice.

Take your time exploring the winding paths of the villa grounds before you head inside—it makes the modern art feel all the more profound. I will see you in the galleries.